Birth & Growth

Puppies are immature at birth. Eyelids and ears are closed and sealed. The eyes will open in about 10 to 14 days and the ears open after that, at about 13 to 17 days.

When you pick up a puppy at birth it should wiggle with a lot of energy; feel firm and plump. It is able to move around the whelping box looking for warmth and food. For the first 6 days pups are unable to shiver
and maintain their own body temperature. Puppies are never real still and a healthy pup will twitch and jerk. This active sleep helps the pup develop muscle tone and should be seen 75% of their sleep time.

The first couple days weight is checked every 3 to 4 hours. A healthy pup will double their birth weight in 7 to 10 days. Without proper care and moderating a pup could be lost in a matter of hours.

A look at pups under 1 hour of age. Weight at birth 5 oz to 8.5 oz.

30% of puppies die between birth and weaning. 3/4th of these die in the first 2 weeks. Some causes of death are lack of advanced preparation, inadequate heat in the whelping area, not keeping the area clean, or lack of care by the dam. Weight should be checked on a gram scale every 3 hours for the first day then every 6 hours the second day. Daily weighing for the next two weeks . Every 3 days for a month. This should be increased with any sign of a loss in weight
Puppy Diseases:

Bleeding , Toxic Milk, , Navel Infection , Septicemia , Herpes Virus, Flat Puppy , Skin Infections , Conjunctivitis , Hypoglycemia , Hernia

Pups should be checked every 3 to 4 hours to be sure they are getting enough nourishment. Often times the smaller less aggressive pups will be forced off the nipple causing them to become dehydrated Using a gram scale allows you to find the problem before it is a problem. Pinching the skin on the neck up and letting go to see how fast it goes back into place is another test

A puppy that is nursing correctly will have it’s tongue wrapped around the nipple, as pictured above.

The pups will start to lay in all kinds of positions.

Mother will keep count and clean the pups day and night.

The First Couple Weeks

During the 2 and 3 days the pups should have their dew claws removed. This is done to prevent possible pain and injury latter in life.

On the 2 to 3 days of life the umbilical cord will dry up and fall off.

By the third day the kids and Mom are starting to get a hold of this new Life. Pups will wonder more around the pen. Mom needs to take head counts more often to see where all the kids have wondered off to. New born pups need to be handled. This early life handling will promote a better socialized dog. Nails should be checked and clipped if needed.

Yes nail trimming does start this early

Cleaning up after the pups is in full swing at this point. Pups still need to be burped or colic might develop. Dogs accomplish this when they lick and stimulate the pups.

A healthy puppy will generally double their birth weight in a week to 10 days.

The pigment (color) will start to come in. This will develop at different rates in each pup. Adding sunshine will help, or, later on, after the pups are weaned, kelp can be added to the diet to promote further coloring.

By early observation many problems can be avoided

Just under 2 weeks.

Eyes open 12 to 14 days of age. When they first open some of the pups will be cross eyed and there is a blue/gray cast to them that clears as they mature and they get use to the light. Pups begin to get up on their rear legs and walk /stumble around the pen. Some play starts as they lift a front paw and try to bat a litter mate. Most generally ending in the pup falling over. The puppies will even start to move from their bed to relieve themselves on the paper provided for that use.

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To Breed or Not to Breed

Anyone can breed dogs, but not everyone has what it takes to be a responsible breeder.
To see if you might have the qualifications, take this quiz.

1. Responsible breeding starts with the selection of quality breeding prospects. Which of the following is true?

a. I have selected dogs having AKC registration.
b. I have selected dogs that are not only registered with the AKC, but are outstanding specimens of the breed,
who conform to the breed standard and have worked toward or completed their AKC championship title.
c. I have selected dogs having sound health and temperaments, and whose traits are complimentary to each
other.
d. My goals in breeding include the long term betterment of the breed, and the results of my endeavors will show that.

2. Responsible breeding is a time-consuming and expensive undertaking. Which of the following concerns are valid?

a. Pre whelping care and expenses could be considerable, and I have set aside enough money and enough
time to adequately care for the dam.
b. Whether or not a c-section is required, it should always be planned for. I have discussed the possibility with
my regular vet, am aware of the cost, but have also I have set aside money to cover the
costs of an emergency c-section, in the event that my regular vet cannot be reached at the time of labor.
c. I am willing to provide around the clock care for my dam and puppies, at least for the first few weeks.
d. I have a warm, quiet and safe environment set aside in my home for the whelping pen. I have all the required
supplies on hand: heating elements, scales, a complete whelping kit for dogs, supplementary feeding supplies.

3. Responsible breeding means that the prospective parents have been screened for inherited birth defects,
which might include the following tests:

a. CERF, to screen for cataracts or other inheritable eye diseases.
b. BAER, to determine that the dog can hear in both ears.
c. OFA of hips and patellas, to screen against hip dysphasia and luxating patellas.

4. A responsible breeder provides the following care for puppies before they are placed in a home:
a. Has provided at least two series of initial immunizations, and dew claw removal.
b. Proper socialization: the puppies should have ample interaction with the mother, siblings, and other
members of the household, and should meet as many different people as possible (when it is safe to do so).
c. Thoroughly screens each potential new owner, making sure that they are a good a match for the puppy’s personality,
and can provide adequate care and nurturing.

5. A responsible breeder provides the following services after the puppy leaves for a new home:

a. Follows up to make sure the pup is adjusting well.
b. Answers any questions the new owners might have, and continually offer support.
c. Agrees to take that puppy back, willingly, and for the life of that dog, should any problem arise where it is necessary for the puppy to leave the new home.

Of course all the answers are correct!! But there is much more involved than was even touched on in this quiz.
If you have agreed with all the responses here and still feel that breeding is for you, then you have years of study,
work, joy, loss, heartache, smiles, tears, friends, foes, and fears ahead of you. Good luck! (oh yes, you need that too).

Submitted by
Katie Cleary ktc@snip.net

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The General Training

Cage benefits:

Simplifies house training; confines unattended pets, saves on possible damage to household items, may save his life by keeping him away from electric wires and items that he might find on the floor that should not be eaten.

Fence in and save his life. You would never allow a 2 year old to go out unattended or wonder in the house while you were at work.

Should there be a emergerys you will know exactly were your pet is.

Tips for Cage Training {Housebreaking}

Select a cage size that allows an adult dog ample room to stretch. Use cardboard or hardboard sheet between louvers to create a puppy-size area. Adjust as your dog grows. To much room and the puppy will go in the crate. Dogs in general will not soil their bed.

Place the cage away from drafts and heat vents. Provide soft washable bedding and offer a treat for reentering the cage.

Starting – establish a regular, daily routine using the cage for naps and whenever puppy is left alone {2-3 hours maximum}. Take the pup from the cage directly to a designated “outside elimination” spot. Then , go directly inside… repeated steps and praise will allow the pup to make the association.

Remember a puppy can only hold his bladder 1 hour per month of age.

Evenings- well before bedtime, place pup in cage and offer a treat or chew, a positive effect; close and lock gate. Then before bedtime, take pup outside for elimination, return pup to cage and again offer treat, lock cage before retiring. I also suggest that you remove all water early in the evening so he can not “load up” with water just before bed.

If the pup starts barking, be forceful. Use your “tough” voice and tell him NO.

Safety Suggestions

Never give your new friend raw hide chews. These chews become very soft and mushy and can become lodged in the throat choking him and causing death. These products often come from other countries where manufacturing is not done in a sanitary manner, many of these raw hide bones come with parasite eggs that can develop into live worms in your dog. To add to the above list these are not digestible in the dogs system. There have been many reports of dogs having to undergo surgery to remove them from the digestive track. There is also animal hooves offered at many stores. Some of there “flake” apart while being chewed. These flakes tend to have a hook at one end. There was a report on the Internet from a vet warning people that these hook like pieces have been cought in the digestive system and she had to operate to remove the blockage.

Never leave your dog’s collar or harness on when left in a crate unattended. In most cases there would not be a problem, but there has been reports of the collar getting caught on the crate and the dog being hung as the fought to get free. Why take a chance.

I personally had a problem why back when I left the collar on . My Westie some how was able to get her leg up under the collar and was stuck in that position for up to 8 hours while I was at work. I was lucky I came home to only a very disturbed uncomfortable Westie with no bad after affects.

Never give you dog cooked bones. Cooked bones become brittle and sharp. and can cause damage to the s intestines as they pass through.

RAW BONES are excellent for him to have. They will give him nutrition and help keep the teeth clean. There are now antlers being offered for sale. Deer and elk being more common. These also make for a health chew and do provide nutrution.

Never let your Boston run free. Your Boston may see something of interest across the street and off he will go. Smash no dog. Your puppy may want to follow another person home. Bostons are very friendly and very much wanted by others.

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How to buy a puppy and what to ask

CKC is where a lot of the puppy mills are going to cut the new higher cost of AKC. I can register a SPCA dog with CKC. (it is not the Canada Kennel Club– they are OK)

The deaf gene runs on the white factor. This is the same gene that runs with Boxers, German Shepherds and with Dalmatians.

Blue and white and red and white are mutations and are not a accepted color with The National Boston Terrier Club. As with any breed a mutation can and often has health issues as well a temperament issues. The above colors in Bostons have not been around long enough to have any real studies done. Breeding for “rare white” Bostons is asking for trouble with deafness.

The health tests that should be done on all breeding stock before breeding is CERF for the eyes. BARE testing for the hearing and OFA for the patella. The price of the dogs should be reflected it the price of the puppy.

 

When you are talking to a breeder asking about the price of the puppy/dog keep in mind a few of the expenses that have have endured. What testing has been done, before breeding of the adults and on the pups. What they feed their dogs. Number of shots given to date.< parents and whelps have normal maintenance requirements in order to have healthy pups>. Was the birthing by c-section or natural. <normal c-section is now running about $2000 and up, no matter how many pups are born.> There is also a stud fee or the breeder has maintained their own male. What ever the case the male has a price that has been invested. The breeder has also paid for the litter and the parents to be registered
with AKC or UKC so as to maintain purebred proof of lines. Some breeders also have added ID chips for the pups safe return to you.

Then there is the time involved in the care of the parents and then the babies. Sure mothers do most of the work at the start, but then we take over. There are papers to change, feeding dishes to wash, toys to clean and then more toys to buy and puppy food and chews to cut teeth with. Toys are needed to stimulate a pups mind . As well as the everyday touch of a human hand .

Vet checks and due claws to be removed as well and time keeping the nails cut at least once a week. If a breeder was to keep track of their time and charge for it there would be no way any of us could afford a new pup.The first days after the whelps are welcomed into the world many of us sleep in chairs or on the floor. When there is a problem with one of the babies there is no sleep unless a friend comes in and helps. Time spent with the babies is endless but there is no other way to raise healthy well adjusted pups you people like you and your family.

The average litter size for a Boston is 3.5 per AKC.
You do the math

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